Scroll/lap frame pro/con
Nov. 26th, 2012 05:47 pmSo I've been looking at getting into more detailed stuff (25ct work and such) and in my nosing around, I've found some pretty vocal people going "lap/scroll frames forever, hoops never" and explaining how hoops damage your stitches and your fabric gets dirty and whatnot.
While I can understand the dirty fabric thing from the oils on your hands and such (though I've not personally had the problem), I'm wondering if the other stuff is true or if it's just opinion since from my knitting experience, I know people can get vocal and very defensive just on the way you hold a needle.
So frames vs hoops!
Pros? Cons? Personal opinion and anecdotes?
I am all ears.
While I can understand the dirty fabric thing from the oils on your hands and such (though I've not personally had the problem), I'm wondering if the other stuff is true or if it's just opinion since from my knitting experience, I know people can get vocal and very defensive just on the way you hold a needle.
So frames vs hoops!
Pros? Cons? Personal opinion and anecdotes?
I am all ears.
no subject
Date: 2012-11-26 05:45 pm (UTC)I have heard wonderful things about Q-snaps. I have no experience with them, but they sound amazing.
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Date: 2012-11-26 05:47 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-12-19 06:10 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-26 06:34 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-26 06:38 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-27 02:19 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-26 10:07 pm (UTC)I have a frame that fits into a stand, which then sits over my lap. It fits in a recliner chair seat or on the couch, but wouldn't work on a office-style chair, I think because one foot or the other would fall over the side. But I have seen frames that have only one foot that slides under your thigh for stability. Very clever those. What I like about it, aside from having a larger field available to me, is that I can feed the needle through the top with one hand and feed it back with the other hand. Also, because then I don't have the hand fatigue from holding the hoop.
The key for frames is putting the fabric in properly. You can't just load it in and scroll it tight and have it be taut; rather, it is best to baste on some waste fabric on the sides (muslin or canvas), then I take some heavy thread (like upholstery thread - something that can handle tension) and lash it to the sides of the frame. Of course as you move through the project, you have to re-do this lashing, but it's the best way IMO to keep even tension on the sides of the fabric.
Now I'm itching to put down the knitting needles and stitch a big nature scene. :)
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Date: 2012-11-27 04:53 pm (UTC)And that sounds so fussy. :x Knowing me, it's not going to work.
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Date: 2012-11-28 11:37 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-27 01:46 am (UTC)I've never had a problem with the hoop damaging the stitches or the fabric.
My little hands are also why I don't use a hoop or a frame when I'm hand quilting, either, which seems to boggle some in the quilting community [g].
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Date: 2012-11-27 05:00 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-27 02:58 am (UTC)I have heard that there can be problems with hoops distorting the fabric (especially if the project sits in the hoop for long stretches), and with the fact that some of the stress is non-orthogonal. Rectangular frames pull vertically and horizontally, but round or oval frames can pull in all directions.
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Date: 2012-11-27 04:54 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-27 03:06 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-27 05:01 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-11-28 11:33 am (UTC)I often use masking tape along the edges to give the pins something extra to hold onto and to stop the fabric fraying; obviously, you either need to cut the fabric to size or use a frame exactly the size of your fabric, or tape along the fabric where the frame touches and accept that you have a bit on the outside - whichever suits you best. It may take a bit of practice to get the fabric perfectly squarely pinned down - I mark the centre of the design, and also, often, the outside dimensions, to line them up with the frame.
I've used the roller frames and clip-frames (the plastic pipe stuff), but I do prefer the Siesta ones.
If you wash your hands before you start stitching, and put the work away somewhere clean, it shouldn't get too grubby; and I always wash my work before framing/finishing it anyway.
no subject
Date: 2012-12-03 02:55 am (UTC)For scroll frames I use this set http://www.herrschners.com/product.aspx?sku=320023&sk=scroll+frame+
I've been using it for several years now and love the versatility of it. The only thing is that the fabric can still get dirty, So I make sure to handle the frame by the wood only.
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Date: 2012-12-03 04:28 am (UTC)Personally, I hate them. I need to have my fabric taunt when I stitch and Q-snaps only the hold the tautness for a short while before I have to re-adjust the fabric. Re-adjusting gets old real fast.
I never have that problem with hoops - but use wooden ones. They hold much better than the plastic ones and the metal ones absolutely will leave marks. If you can find them, try to find some older wooden hoops - maybe at a charity shop -- they used to be made with thicker and much more solid wood with smoothly finished edges. The newer ones work, but do not have the same quality workmanship.